CZECHOSLOVAKIAN "KROJE" COSTUMES
By Willa Mae Cervenka
Appeared in Cesky Hlas, June 1992
Folk costumes are an indispensable part of folk music and dances. They are the pride of our Czech heritage. Authentic and modern day costumes can be admired at public performances and festivals, worn by singing groups, Beseda Dancers and musicians. The Parade of Costumes is one way in which to promote and help keep alive the traditions of Czech culture.
There are many varieties of costumes (kroje) in Czechoslovakia. Out of approximately 550 costumes, 27 are more familiar to us because they bear the names of important cultural centers in Czechoslovakia.
Each county has its own costume, but each village within that county varies just a bit. The differences among the costumes can be explained by the different geographical positions and influences by neighboring cultures. To a great extent, the appearance of the kroje depended, not only on the district of origin, but also on the purposes for which they were used. Fine distinguishing features such as embroidery, colors, shapes of designs, ornaments, flowers, and the style of the women's blouses, kerchiefs, lace, etc. characterized the locality. They were developed so distinctly that an expert could identify the origin of each costume.
Each kroje is a work of art; the colors are so strikingly beautiful in their intensity, mixed with flowers, ribbons, lace, eyelet, and feathers, all encircled with the most exquisite embroidery and hand cut lace. Often reflected in the costumes are the style elements of Renaissance, Baroque, and Empire periods.
Billowing skirts are worn over different starched petticoats. The skirts are made of flax linen, hemp, serge, wool, satin, or brocade fabric; solid colors, such as red with stripes or hand embroidered floral designs, and pastels are the predominant colors. Skirts are gathered or pleated at the waist.
The blouses are always made of white cotton, linen, or organdy, trimmed in white lace or eyelet and hand cut embroidery. Some of the women's enormously puffed pillow lace sleeves were often filled with tissue paper to fill them out, then gathered and tied at the elbow with brightly colored ribbon. Cardboard is used inside of some of the pleated sleeves to hold them in shape.
To complement the blouse and skirt, an apron is worn. Some are black adorned with elaborate embroidery and lace trimming. There are also white aprons made of cotton or organdy with lace and embroidery.
The vests are made of broadcloth, velvet, wool, or satin with buttons or string laced in front. Some are intricately embroidered with colorful gold and silver thread in crewel patterns, beaded and sequined and decorated with insets of ribbon and pom poms on the back of the vest. A colorful sash is worn around the waist or a shawl over the shoulders.
Head designs also vary from a brightly decorated cap made of beads, pearls, flowers, multicolored stones, and mirrored bangles to a plain white cap edged in lace with a large bow. Also a floral wreath or a large scarf is worn over the head. A feather in a man's hat means he is single; a wreath of flowers in a girl's hair means that she is single.
Black boots and low heeled slippers are worn. Some of the boots are high and accordion pleated. The soles and heels are held together with wooden pegs and have metal taps on the heels. Long black stockings are worn with the low cut slippers and moccasins.
Czechoslovakia is rich in folklore. In some regions, folk songs, dances and national costumes still survive. Great popular festivals are held annually. The best known are held at the end of June at Straznice, in Southern Moravia, and usually at the beginning of July at Vychodna, in Central Slovakia. People still wear costumes to sing and celebrate on important occasions, such as births, christenings, weddings, funeral, and holidays.